Home Inspection
A home inspection is a top-to-bottom examination of a property’s physical condition, done by a licensed inspector before you finalize the purchase. It costs $300–$600 on average, takes 2–4 hours, and can save you from buying a money pit.
The inspector checks everything a buyer can’t easily see — the roof’s remaining life, the furnace’s age, whether the foundation is cracking, if the wiring is up to code. You get a written report, usually 30–50 pages with photos, that tells you exactly what’s wrong and how serious it is.
What Inspectors Check
A standard home inspection covers the major systems and structural components:
| System | What They Check | Typical Replacement Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Roof | Shingles, flashing, gutters, age, leaks | $8,000–$15,000 |
| Foundation | Cracks, settling, water intrusion, drainage | $5,000–$30,000+ |
| HVAC | Furnace, AC, ductwork, age, efficiency | $5,000–$12,000 |
| Plumbing | Pipes, water heater, fixtures, water pressure | $2,000–$15,000 |
| Electrical | Panel, wiring type, GFCI outlets, grounding | $3,000–$10,000 |
| Exterior | Siding, windows, doors, grading, drainage | Varies widely |
| Interior | Walls, ceilings, floors, doors, stairs | Varies |
| Attic/Insulation | Ventilation, insulation depth, moisture | $1,500–$5,000 |
What inspectors don’t check: anything behind walls, under concrete slabs, or underground. They also skip specialized issues like mold, radon, termites, asbestos, and lead paint. Those require separate tests at $100–$400 each.
Red Flags That Should Scare You
Not every issue in an inspection report is a deal-breaker. A dripping faucet is a $50 fix. These are the findings that should make you renegotiate hard — or walk away:
- Foundation problems. Horizontal cracks wider than 1/4 inch, bowing walls, or significant settling. Repairs start at $5,000 and can exceed $30,000
- Active water intrusion. Water in the basement or crawl space means ongoing damage. Waterproofing runs $3,000–$10,000
- Knob-and-tube or aluminum wiring. Fire hazard. Full rewiring costs $8,000–$15,000 and many insurers won’t cover homes with it
- Polybutylene pipes. These gray plastic pipes (common 1978–1995) are a ticking time bomb. Repiping costs $4,000–$8,000
- Roof at end of life. If the inspector says 2–3 years left, budget $10,000–$15,000 immediately
- Mold in the attic or crawl space. Remediation costs $1,500–$9,000 depending on severity
- Structural wood damage. Termites, carpenter ants, or dry rot in load-bearing members is expensive and hard to fully assess
What to Do With the Report
You’ve got the report. Now what? You have three options:
Ask for repairs. The seller fixes specific items before closing. This works for clear-cut issues like a broken furnace or active leak. Downside: you can’t control the quality of their repairs.
Ask for a price reduction. Better for bigger-ticket items. If the roof needs $12,000 in work, ask for $10,000 off the purchase price. You control the repair timeline and quality.
Walk away. If the inspection reveals major structural or environmental problems, your inspection contingency lets you exit with your earnest money intact. Don’t fall in love with a house so hard that you ignore a $40,000 foundation problem.
How Much Does a Home Inspection Cost?
| Home Size | Standard Inspection | With Add-Ons |
|---|---|---|
| Under 1,500 sq ft | $300–$400 | $500–$700 |
| 1,500–2,500 sq ft | $400–$500 | $600–$900 |
| 2,500–4,000 sq ft | $500–$600 | $800–$1,100 |
| 4,000+ sq ft | $600–$800 | $1,000–$1,400 |
Common add-ons: radon test ($150), termite inspection ($75–$150), sewer scope ($150–$300), mold testing ($200–$400). In older homes, spring for the add-ons. A $150 sewer scope is cheap insurance against a $15,000 sewer line replacement.
How to Find a Good Inspector
Don’t use the first name your agent suggests. Agents want deals to close — some steer buyers toward “easy” inspectors who downplay problems. Instead, look for inspectors with ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) or InterNACHI certification, at least 5 years of full-time experience, and E&O (errors and omissions) insurance.
Ask for a sample report before hiring. A good report includes photos of every issue, clear severity ratings, and estimated repair costs. A bad report is three pages of vague notes. Read online reviews, but weight the negative ones more heavily — that’s where you’ll find patterns like missed issues or rushed inspections.
Also consider specialty: an inspector who spent 20 years in construction will catch framing and foundation issues better than someone who came from an unrelated field. Ask about their background.
Should You Ever Skip an Inspection?
In hot markets, buyers sometimes waive inspections to compete. This is risky. If you’re going to waive, at least do a “pre-inspection” before submitting your offer (costs the same, but you know what you’re getting into). You can also waive the inspection contingency but still get the inspection — you just can’t back out based on findings.
On new construction, absolutely get an inspection. Builders make mistakes. A $400 inspection on a $500,000 new build is the cheapest insurance you’ll ever buy.
These two evaluations serve different purposes — our inspection vs. appraisal guide covers the key differences.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I attend the home inspection?
Yes, and you absolutely should. Walk the property with the inspector for the last 30–60 minutes. They’ll show you how systems work, point out maintenance items, and explain what’s serious versus cosmetic. It’s the best education you’ll get about the home you’re about to buy. Bring a notebook and ask questions — no good inspector minds. Before you get this far, make sure your finances are solid with our affordability calculator, and review the full homebuying process so you know what comes next.